Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Athens

Kapnikarea is a Greek Orthodox church, and it remains among Athens’ oldest churches still in continuous use. Its origins reach back to the 11th century, with construction possibly taking place around 1050. The building brings together three attached units: the main church devoted to Mary’s Presentation at the Temple, a chapel for Saint Barbara, and a western entrance structure.

The principal church has a dome and a cross-in-square plan. It was built above an ancient Greek temple, perhaps one dedicated to Athena or Demeter. When a new plan for Athens put the church at risk of demolition, Ludwig I of Bavaria intervened and preserved it.

Today, this Byzantine church stands amid the busy shops of Ermou Street, at the edge of Plaka. Its dedication is to Mary, and its long survival gives this small landmark an unusually dramatic history.