
Berlin
Berlin — Why Is It Called Checkpoint Charlie?
The Charlie in Checkpoint Charlie is not a person. It is a letter. The Western Allies labelled their checkpoints with the NATO phonetic alphabet, and the crossing on Friedrichstraße was the third on the list: C, spoken as Charlie. Checkpoint Alpha and Checkpoint Bravo existed too, but they were not in the middle of Berlin, and they are far less known.
The other side never used the name at all. To the Soviets it was the Friedrichstraße crossing point, and the East German authorities called it the Grenzübergangsstelle Friedrich-/Zimmerstraße, the Friedrich Street and Zimmer Street border crossing. Charlie was the Western Allies' name for it, and it is the one the rest of the world learned.
Alpha, Bravo, Charlie
Checkpoint Alpha was the autobahn crossing at Helmstedt, the most important checkpoint on the border between West and East Germany. Checkpoint Bravo was its counterpart at Dreilinden, in the south of Berlin, where the same road entered West Berlin. Between them ran the autobahn from Hanover to Berlin, about 170 kilometres across East German territory, the shortest connection between the western zones and the city. Charlie was different: it was the crossing inside Berlin itself, between the American sector and the Soviet sector on Friedrichstraße.
So the name only records where the checkpoint sat in that sequence. It became famous for what happened there.
The crossing for foreigners
Checkpoint Charlie operated from 1961 to 1990. The Western Allies set it up in August and September 1961, after the Wall went up, so that their military personnel could keep passing the sector boundary in a registered, controlled way. It became the one designated crossing point for foreign tourists and dignitaries and for members of the Allied armed forces. Other foreigners had to cross at the Friedrichstraße railway station instead.

Its most dangerous moment came that same autumn. A dispute that began on 22 October 1961 over a US diplomat's travel documents escalated until, by 27 October, ten Soviet tanks and the same number of American tanks stood about 100 yards apart, ready for combat. The standoff ended peacefully the next day, after negotiations between the United States and the Soviet Union.
A year later, the crossing saw a killing. On 17 August 1962, a teenager named Peter Fechter was shot by East German guards while trying to escape. He was left in the Soviet sector, tangled in barbed wire, and bled to death in view of people watching from the West, who could not reach him.
The guardhouse came down on 22 June 1990. The original is now displayed at the Allied Museum. What stands on Friedrichstraße today is a replica of the earliest guardhouse, unveiled on 13 August 2000. Look down along Zimmerstraße and you will see paving stones that trace the line of the Wall, and the open-air displays nearby tell the stories of escapes, of the crossing's expansion and of the tank confrontation.
One more recent change: actors dressed as Allied military police used to pose with tourists for paid photographs at the guardhouse, until Berlin's authorities banned the practice in November 2019.
The Wall beside the Gestapo's address
Checkpoint Charlie is not the only place in this part of the city where the Wall still stands. On Niederkirchnerstraße, the Topography of Terror keeps a long surviving stretch of it along the street. The Wall is not the main subject here. This ground once held the headquarters of the Gestapo and the central offices of the SS and its security services, and an exhibition trench below the Wall exposes what is left of their buildings.

The site shows two layers of Berlin's twentieth century at once: the Wall of the Cold War running along the top of the ground, and the remains of the Nazi state's machinery of persecution beneath it. The project began in 1987 with an exhibition created for Berlin's anniversary, and the documentation centre opened in 2010. Inside, the permanent exhibition follows the institutions of repression and the crimes they carried out across Europe, and gives attention to the people they persecuted. Outside, a site tour of 15 stations uses the excavated remains to explain what happened here. It is meant as a place of information and of confronting the crimes of the Nazi state, rather than a conventional museum or memorial.
A gate that was not a crossing
Checkpoint Charlie was famous because people could pass through it. The Brandenburg Gate became a symbol for the opposite reason.
The gate was designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans for King Frederick William II of Prussia and built between 1789 and 1793, in a Greek Revival style modelled on the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens. Twelve fluted Doric columns stand in six pairs, making five passageways, and the central one is wider than the rest. On top, Johann Gottfried Schadow's Quadriga shows a goddess driving a chariot pulled by four horses. Its name is a direction: the road here once led toward the town of Brandenburg an der Havel. It is the only one of Berlin's eighteen former city gates that survives.

During the Cold War the Berlin Wall blocked the passage, and the gate became a sign of Germany's division. Since reunification it has stood for the overcoming of that division and for European unity. War damage was repaired by 1958, and a major restoration was completed in 2002.
The bridge that closed and reopened
On the Spree, between Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, the Oberbaumbrücke shows how a crossing could be shut and then partly reopened. It is a double-deck bridge, with the railway viaduct above and the road below, designed by Otto Stahn and completed in 1896. Its brick towers were inspired by the Middle Gate Tower in Prenzlau and recall the bridge's older role as a river gateway into Berlin, where a spiked tree trunk once blocked boats at night to stop smuggling.

In April 1945, German forces blew apart much of the central arch. The bridge later became a crossing between East and West Berlin, and then in 1961 the Wall closed it to all traffic, the underground railway included. Pedestrians could cross again permanently from 1972, under the Four Power Agreement. After reunification the bridge was restored with a new steel central section designed by Santiago Calatrava. It reopened to pedestrians and traffic on 9 November 1994, and the underground came back the following year.
At night, look for the light installation on the bridge. "Stone – Paper – Scissors" has been playing its game of hands continuously since 1997.
The longest piece left standing
Walk across the Oberbaumbrücke to the Friedrichshain side and you reach the East Side Gallery, a stretch of the Wall along Mühlenstraße beside the Spree. At about 1,316 metres, it is the longest surviving section of the Wall.
In spring 1990, after the Wall had opened, 118 artists from 21 countries painted more than a hundred works on it, responding to the political changes of 1989 and 1990. The paintings you see today are replicas made in 2009, because urban development and severe deterioration had damaged the originals. The gallery is now a protected cultural monument.

There is one detail here that changes how the wall reads. This was not the frontier itself but the inner wall of the border system. The actual frontier ran along the Kreuzberg bank of the river, on the far side of the water.
Where the Wall is remembered
For the Wall as it actually worked, head to Bernauer Straße and the Berlin Wall Memorial. A 70-metre section of the border system has been preserved here, rebuilt in 1998 and later folded into a wider memorial landscape. Behind the concrete you can see how the border strip was laid out: sand, a lit patrol road, a signal fence and an inner wall, with a tower inside the enclosure. Visitors cannot go in.

The Window of Remembrance is a 12-metre wall of Corten steel with 162 openings, holding portraits of 130 people who were killed or died at the Berlin Wall, with their names and dates engraved below. A nearby stele commemorates eight border guards who also died. The oval Chapel of Reconciliation has a façade of wooden rods and a prayer room built from rammed earth, and it reuses materials from the church that once stood on this site, including its bells. Across the former death strip, rye has been grown since 2005 as an art project.
If you want to walk these places yourself, Guided can build a route through them around the time you have, and tells you each place's story by audio as you arrive.
Sources
- Guided Tours narration for Checkpoint Charlie, the Topography of Terror, the Brandenburg Gate, the Oberbaumbrücke, the East Side Gallery and the Berlin Wall Memorial
- Checkpoint Charlie, Wikipedia
- Helmstedt–Marienborn border crossing, Wikipedia
- Topography of Terror, Wikipedia
- Brandenburg Gate, Wikipedia
- Oberbaum Bridge, Wikipedia
- East Side Gallery, Wikipedia
- Berlin Wall Memorial, Wikipedia
Places in this story
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iThe Central Intelligence Agency (Public domain) Checkpoint Charlie
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iStiftung Topographie des Terrors (CC BY-SA 3.0 de) Topographie des Terrors
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iThomas Wolf, www.foto-tw.de (CC BY-SA 3.0) Brandenburger Tor
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iSarah Jane at Flickr (CC BY 2.0) Oberbaumbrücke
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iFreepenguin (CC BY-SA 3.0) East Side Gallery
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idalbera from Paris, France (CC BY 2.0) Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
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